Fall Bulb Gardens for Beginners

 

Intimidated by bulb gardening? You’re not alone. Thankfully, with a few quick pointers, you’ll be ready to put in one of the easiest, most lovely early spring gardens, starting today!

How do fall bulbs work?

Fall bulbs are simply flower bulbs that are planted during the autumn that will sprout and bloom early in the spring. Some varieties include tulips, narcissus, hyacinths and crocus. These bulbs need time to establish their root system before winter frost, but require the cold dormant period of winter to bloom. Ideally, these bulbs should be planted after the temperature reaches 65 degrees, but close to 6-8 weeks before a hard frost. Bulbs do best when planted in the ground, but with a little extra work, they can also be planted in containers.

Does your plant choice match its environment?

Knowing your hardiness zone as well as that of your bulbs will make life so much more pleasant for both you and your bulbs. Generally purchasing from a local garden center will ensure proper zoning, while ordering from abroad without a little extra research may produce less than desirable results. Likewise, bulbs planted when it is still too warm might sprout before the first frost, and freeze during winter. Within colder regions (zones 1-4 or mountainous regions) gardeners might use extra mulch to keep those bulbs from severe freezing temperatures, and remove that heavy mulch again in spring to allow the flower to bloom and grow to its full potential.

Already have bulbs in hand, but the weather is still too warm?

Store bulbs in a cool, dry location prior to planting. Bulbs are activated in spring by increased temperatures and rain, so storing them in an area with those conditions will trigger a bulb to grow. Bulbs with sprouts can still be planted, but if the sprout is damaged or removed, the plant will not grow. Bulbs are alive when they arrive at a garden center, and will commonly have a shelf life of 4 months before they will not survive. Gardeners like you can shop early in the season for a greater selection, then store bulbs in a cool, dark, dry place (an open paper bag on a closet shelf) until the optimal time to plant.

Still shopping for bulbs?

Be an informed consumer. Look for bulbs that are firm. A mushy or soft bulb is dead or a bad bulb. Contrarily, a bit of mold on the outer layer of the bulb that easily brushes away will do no harm to the plant. Many bulbs, when cared for properly, will return and bloom the following spring. Daffodils, crocus, hyacinth and alliums are among those varieties. Other varieties to be aware of are those that may deter bunnies and deer from destroying your garden: scilla, snowdrops, daffodils, hyacinth and allium. While those plants are not favored by wildlife, obviously a hungry enough animal will eat anything. Also keep in mind that bulbs bloom at different times throughout the season, so with a bit of research even an amateur can make a show-stopping display that continues after each flower is spent.

Ready to plant?

Good soil prep is key to planting bulbs. You may either choose to dig up a larger space, like a garden bed, for a large number of bulbs, or dig individual holes for each bulb for a smaller crop. A good rule of thumb for depth: bulbs should be placed in the ground at about three times their diameter. Smaller bulbs can sit about 5 inches below the surface, while larger varieties may land closer to 8 inches below. Well-draining soil will help your bulbs perform their best, so avoid planting areas that collect water. If you are planting in containers, you should plant in layers according to bulb size. Always plant bulbs with the pointed side up and the flatter side (often with tiny roots) down, cover with soil, water, and let the winter rains and snow take care of watering until spring. Plant bulbs in clumps or stagger depending on where you are looking for color. Paying attention to bloom times when planting can help fill in spent blooms in the garden and create a show of color that will last all season.

Then what?

Do nothing. It’s really that simple. After the flower has bloomed and faded, do not cut down the leaves and stalk. Allowing the plant to die down naturally over the course of the late spring and summer will help the bulb gain back all of the energy spent in flowering and continue its life cycle. A popular opinion is that bulbs need to be tied back after blooming, but it is not necessary, and leaving them to complete the entire cycle will help them prepare for the next season. Once brown, spent leaves may be removed. Some bulbs will need to be dug up and split after time to ensure continued flowering. Fertilizer doesn’t need to be applied in the first year, but after some time, bulbs will benefit from a feeding using a specific mild fertilizer designed for bulbs. Beware: general fertilizers are often too harsh for bulbs.

Don’t want to look at brown plants?

Try planting your spring flowering bulbs among perennials. As the spring flowering bulbs die back, the summer flowering perennials start to emerge and hide the dying foliage.

Sarah